When the days get short and winter swells pound the west coast of Ireland, it can be difficult to even find a spot to get in the water. Let alone deal with the low temperatures and coming up with a contingency plan.
Luckily we have a very jagged coastline, full of nooks, bays, inlets and and reefs. North-west winds generally bring very turbulent conditions at this time of year. Cold air from the north mixes with the slightly warmer maritime west winds that carry moisture laden clouds across the Atlantic Ocean. This mixture forces bands of moisture to form between pockets of clear airs.
It makes for a very unpredictable day, what might seem almost tropical with bright sunny spells, that make the water shine and reflect deep blue and azure, can quickly turn into the darkest torrential conditions in a matter of minutes. Winds can increase sometimes from 20knots (40kms) to 40knots (80kms). Making sailing extremely difficult as the squall passes over.
However, as challenging as a these conditions may be, it is worth it! When you find a mountain of rolling swell out to sea and track it in towards the the break. Your heart beats faster with anticipation, fear, excitement. Questions race through your mind, am I in the right position, how big will it be, what will I try and do? Then, as you fly past the point of no return, the questioning mind is silenced by the raw energy of wind and wave exploding and crashing around you. You do your best to ride the clean face and tap into the surge of energy that the wave unleashes as it breaks upon the shore.
The feeling after you have somewhat harnessed this power, is a mixture of exhilaration, adrenaline and relief is amazing. A feeling you want to experience again and again. It drives your progression, love for the sport and admiration for the wonders of Mother Nature.
DK.